How to Get the Perfect Slick Back

The slick back is one of the few haircuts that has never really gone out of style. From 1920s film stars to 1980s Wall Street to the modern Italian gentleman, the look keeps reinventing itself — and at City Barbers we cut a lot of them, especially among guys on the Upper East Side who want something timeless that still looks sharp in a suit.

It also has a reputation for being harder than it looks. Half the men who show up wanting one have tried it at home and given up because the hair flips up at the back or goes greasy by lunchtime. The truth is the slick back isn't that hard — but it requires the right haircut, the right product, and a routine that takes about three minutes. This guide walks you through all three.

What a slick back actually is

A slick back is exactly what it sounds like: the hair on top is combed straight back from the forehead, held in place with product, and finished so it has shape and shine but doesn't move. There are no parts and no flow forward — every strand goes backward.

The look comes in two main variations. The classic wet slick back uses a glossy, hard-hold product for that polished, almost reflective finish (think Don Draper, or any photo of a 1960s European football star). The matte slick back uses a low-shine clay or paste for a more modern, textured look — more "off-duty model" than "old-Hollywood star." Both start from the same haircut.

The cut: what to ask your barber for

Length is everything. To slick back properly, the hair on top needs to reach at least four to five inches when stretched out. If it's shorter than that, the ends will lift no matter how much pomade you pile on. When clients at our 223 E 74th St shop ask for a slick back and they've buzzed their hair in the last few months, we'll often tell them honestly to wait a haircut cycle and grow it out first.

The sides are where you make the look your own. Three common pairings:

Slick back with a taper. The sides graduate gradually from the temples down to the neckline. It's the most classic, professional version, and the one we recommend for guys in finance, law, or anywhere there's a dress code.

Slick back with a skin fade. The sides fade down to bare skin, giving you a high-contrast modern version of the cut. This is the most-requested variation we see at City Barbers — it looks great on younger guys and reads less "traditional."

Slick back undercut. The sides are cut to one short, uniform length (usually a 1 or 2 guard) and the top simply falls over the disconnect. It's the boldest version and works best with thick, straight hair.

Whichever you pick, tell your barber the words "I want to slick this back, so leave it long enough to lay flat." A good barber will adjust the cut for that goal — keeping the front a touch longer than the back so the silhouette stays clean once you comb it.

The styling routine, step by step

Here's the routine our barbers teach clients before they leave the chair. It takes about three minutes.

1. Start with damp hair. Towel-dry your hair until it's no longer dripping but still clearly wet. Damp hair takes product evenly. Dry hair won't.

2. Pre-shape with a blow dryer (optional but worth it). If your hair has a natural part or a stubborn cowlick, point a blow dryer at the roots and use a brush — or just your fingers — to push everything backward for thirty seconds. This trains the hair to lay the right direction before the product goes in.

3. Warm the product in your palms. Scoop a coin-sized amount of pomade (or two if your hair is thick) and rub it between your palms until it's smooth and almost see-through. Cold pomade clumps. Warm pomade spreads.

4. Work it through, root to tip. Run your hands through the hair starting at the roots, then through to the ends, making sure every strand has product on it. Don't just smear it on the surface — that's why guys get the dreaded "front looks slick, back looks frizzy" result.

5. Comb everything straight back. A wide-tooth comb gives you a relaxed finish; a fine-tooth comb gives you those classic comb lines. Use the comb in one smooth motion from forehead to crown.

6. Shape the silhouette. Look in the mirror from the side. Tuck any flyaways behind your ear. If you want a little volume at the front, lift a small section with your finger before it sets.

Choosing the right product

This is where most home attempts go wrong. The slick back lives or dies by your product. A few rules of thumb:

For a wet, glossy look, use a water-based pomade with a medium-to-strong hold. Water-based means it washes out easily — old-school petroleum pomades hold beautifully but require two shampoos to remove.

For a matte finish, use a strong-hold clay or paste. These give shape without shine, and the texture they add helps the hair stay put.

Avoid hair gel for daily wear. It works in a pinch, but it dries rigid, flakes, and goes shiny in a way that looks dated. If you must use gel, use a small amount mixed with a drop of leave-in conditioner.

Common mistakes to avoid

Too much product is the number one mistake. Start with less than you think you need — you can always add more, but you can't take it out without rewashing. The second is applying product only to dry hair: product spreads through damp hair evenly, but on dry hair it clumps at the front and starves the back. The third is combing once and walking away. Slick backs hold longer when you comb, walk away for two minutes while the product starts to set, then comb one more time. That second pass locks the shape in.